For lunch on this cold late fall day, there is one and only one destination I have in mind: Rice Bowl on Broadway between 71st and 72nd Streets.

Rice Bowl is great. I love the tofu and vegetables over brown rice. It's pretty basic, but that's why it's so good. Many gourmet restaurants saturate their preparations with a dizzying maze of gravies and sauces. In my opinion, the real test of excellence is how well natural flavors shine through without the mask of obscure seasonings. The tofu and vegetables dish is just that--fresh tofu and ripe, colorful, cooked vegetables, and nothing else. You can get as much or as little rice as you want. (Sauces, such as ginger and soy, are available in small plastic containers, good for those of us who find that fast Asian food tends to be overly drenched in soy sauce.)

Heading over to Rice Bowl. Back soon.